What watches go up in value?

Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Rolex are the watch brands most likely to go up in value. Since 2017, Patek Philippe watches have risen 180.9%, Audemars Piguet 98% and Rolex 80%, and they remain the investment watches collectors turn to first.

How has the luxury watch market performed?

The pre-owned luxury watch market is worth 81.6% more today than it was almost 10 years ago, according to the WatchCharts Overall Market Index, which tracks 300 watches from the 10 leading luxury watch brands. It hasn't been a straight line: prices peaked in early 2022, fell sharply as interest rates rose, and bottomed out in 2025. Since then the market has been recovering, with values up 8.3% over the past year.

The history of watch value appreciation

The appreciation of watch value is a relatively recent phenomenon, gaining significant traction in the latter half of the 20th century. Historically, watches were primarily functional accessories. However, as the craftsmanship and technology behind watchmaking evolved, so did the perception of them as good watch investments. Post-World War II, there was a shift in the luxury market. Brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe started to gain prominence, not just for their reliability and precision but for their exquisite craftsmanship and limited production. This era marked the beginning of watches being seen as more than useful objects but as pieces of art and engineering masterpieces.

During the 1980s, with the rise of the digital watch and quartz crisis threatening traditional watchmaking, mechanical watches saw a resurgence in value. Collectors began to appreciate the intricate mechanisms and the heritage of brands that survived the quartz revolution. This period solidified the status of high-end watches as valuable collectable watches and investment pieces.

Key factors that influence watch value

Several factors can influence what watches go up in value and how strong their resale value is, and these can change vastly over time. It is essential to consider these elements before buying investment watches.

Brand reputation

The brand's reputation plays a crucial role in a watch's value. Renowned brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have a longstanding history of producing high-quality, limited-edition watches that hold their value. These brands produce some of the world's most sought-after luxury watches.

Limited editions and rare models

Limited editions and rare models tend to appreciate significantly. Watches produced in small quantities or with unique features are often more sought after by collectors, driving up their value. For example, Rolex's "Paul Newman" Daytona or Patek Philippe's Nautilus models have seen substantial appreciation due to their rarity and popularity.

Condition and provenance

The condition of the watch is paramount. Watches that are well maintained, retain their original parts, show minimal wear and have been regularly serviced tend to retain or increase in value. Provenance, or the watch's history, can also add to its worth. A watch previously owned by a notable individual or with a significant backstory can fetch higher prices at auction.

Market trends and demand

Market trends and demand fluctuate, impacting watch values. Economic factors, cultural influences, and changes in fashion can all affect demand. Keeping an eye on market trends and understanding the changing nature of demand for watches can help investors make informed decisions.

Which watch brands hold their value?

These four brands have shown the strongest watch resale value. Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Rolex lead on long-term growth since 2017, with Rolex watches holding their value particularly well, while Cartier has been the most consistent performer in recent years.

How each watch brand has performed since 2017

Performance varies widely from brand to brand. The table below shows how each brand's WatchCharts secondary-market index has changed since 2017. These figures track each brand's index as a whole, not the performance of every individual watch it produces.

1. Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe is synonymous with luxury and exclusivity. Their watches are known for their intricate complications and timeless designs. The Nautilus and Aquanaut models, in particular, have seen impressive Patek Philippe value appreciation. Patek Philippe's commitment to quality and innovation ensures their watches remain highly desirable as one of the ‘holy trinity’ of watches. The Nautilus, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, is one of Patek Philippe's most well-known models. Its distinctive porthole-inspired design and limited production make it especially sought after. The Nautilus is one of the watches that hold their value well, particularly in the last decade, which is why Patek Philippe buyers compete for them.

2. Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak collection has become an icon in the watch industry. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak revolutionised the watch industry with its bold, octagonal design and integrated bracelet. Limited editions and vintage models are especially valuable. The Royal Oak's unique aesthetic and high level of craftsmanship ensure its continued desirability. Limited editions and vintage models of the Royal Oak command high prices in the secondary market. Values have dipped over the past five years, down 7.2%, but AP watches are still worth almost double what they were in 2017 and have risen 8.5% in the past year.

3. Rolex

Rolex is arguably one of the most recognised and respected watch brands globally, with many models holding their value particularly well. Known for their durability, precision, and iconic designs, Rolex watches are a staple in the world of horology. Authentic Rolex watch models like the Rolex Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master II are highly sought after and have shown significant appreciation over the years. The Rolex Submariner is a classic diver's watch with a timeless design. Rolex values are 80% higher than in 2017, despite a 10.5% dip over the past five years. Vintage Submariners, especially those with unique features or limited production runs, have seen substantial increases in value, which is why specialist Rolex buyers like us pay strong prices for them.

4. Cartier

Ever desirable, demand for Cartier watches can often be much greater than availability to buy as new, particularly the Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank. Cartier is one of the few brands to have risen in value across every period tracked: up 5% over five years, 12.4% over three and 10.4% in the past year alone, which is good news if you're looking to sell a Cartier watch. We've included Cartier in this section because of that recent strength: over the past one and three years it has outperformed both Rolex and Audemars Piguet, even though its 18% rise since 2017 is more modest. The 2024 to 2026 trend for square watches has again fuelled interest in these models and keeps Cartier at the forefront of luxury watch fashion. The Cartier Panthère is another one to watch, with the diamond-set ladies' version often grabbing the limelight.

Which watch brands have had mixed results?

Some brands have a more mixed resale value record, with long-term gains or recent recoveries offset by falls along the way.

1. Omega

Omega has been one of the steadier performers. Values are 30% higher than in 2017 and up 5.5% in the past year, helped by lasting demand for the Speedmaster and Seamaster. They are still 3% below where they were five years ago after slipping from a 2022 peak, but that gap is narrowing as demand recovers, which is welcome news if you want to sell an Omega watch.

2. Vacheron Constantin

It may be surprising to see Vacheron Constantin here, as one of watchmaking's "holy trinity" alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Over the long run its watches are still worth 18.3% more than when tracking began, but they've lost ground recently: down 14.1% over three years and 9.6% over five. The tide may be turning, though, with values climbing steadily over the past six months and up 8.9% in the past year. If you own one, now could be a good time to find out what your Vacheron Constantin watch is worth.

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre's index only starts in 2020, but values have risen 16% since then. Prices fell back between 2023 and 2025 before recovering strongly, up 6.6% in the past year. It is also one of the few brands worth more than five years ago (+5.2%), which has helped Jaeger-LeCoultre resale values hold up better than many of its peers.

4. TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer has struggled to hold its value over the long term. Prices are down 7% over five years and only 0.8% higher across the full period tracked. TAG Heuer valuations have picked up recently, rising 7.6% in the past year, but that hasn't yet made up for the longer decline.

Which watch brands don't hold their value?

Not every luxury brand enjoys strong resale value. These brands have seen pre-owned prices fall over the past five years.

1. IWC

IWC has the weakest long-term record of any brand in this article. Values are 23.9% lower than in 2017 and down 18.1% over five years, with the sharpest falls coming in 2023 and 2024. A 2.1% rise over the past year suggests prices may be levelling out, but IWC watch values still have a long way to go to recover.

2. Hublot

Hublot resale values have fallen the furthest over the past five years. A Hublot bought five years ago is worth almost a quarter less today (-23.6%), and values are still down 16.6% over three years. A small 2.6% rise over the past year has already started to slip back, with prices easing again over the last six months.

3. Breitling

Breitling watches have performed poorly over the long term. They are worth 11.8% less than when tracking began in 2017, with a 6.2% drop over the last five years alone. A 6% rise in the past twelve months suggests demand is returning, but Breitling buyers hoping to make money should be cautious.

4. Tudor

Tudor, Rolex's sister brand, is a harder case to call. Values peaked in 2021 and then fell sharply, leaving its watches 16% cheaper than five years ago. Prices have bounced back 12.6% in the past year and are now 9.2% higher than in 2017, but anyone who bought near the peak is still well down, so it pays to get an expert Tudor watch valuation before selling.

How to start investing in watches

Buying investment watches can be daunting, but with careful planning and research, it can also be rewarding. Here are some steps to help you get started.

1. Pre-owned watches

Most brand-new watches will see an initial depreciation at the time of purchase that you will not have with second-hand watches. The exceptions are a few brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, where demand is higher than supply for most models. It's one reason why so many collectors are curious about which Rolex models are a good investment. The second-hand market is also where you'll find many investment watches, including vintage and discontinued models that often fetch higher prices.

2. Research and education

Educate yourself about different watch brands, models, and the factors that influence their value. Books, online forums, and watch enthusiast communities are valuable resources. Understanding the history and nuances of watchmaking will help you make informed decisions. Keep an eye on market trends and follow the latest news in the watch industry. Attend watch auctions, trade shows, and events to stay connected with the community and gain insights into emerging trends and valuable opportunities.

3. Understand prices

Determine how much you would like to spend on investing in watches. Luxury watches range enormously in price depending on the brand and model. Some Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches, for example, can reach hundreds of thousands of pounds. Setting a target price will help you narrow down your options and focus on watches around your price range.

4. Start with reputable brands

When starting, it's advisable to invest in reputable brands known for their value retention and appreciation. Rolex and Patek Philippe are good starting points for collectable watches due to their strong market presence and historical performance.

5. Condition and authenticity

Ensure that the watches you consider are in good condition and come with proper documentation such as Rolex warranty cards and Rolex watch boxes. Authenticity is crucial in the watch market, and buying pre-owned watches from reputable dealers can help mitigate the risk of purchasing counterfeit or poorly maintained watches.

Are watches a good investment?

Investing in watches can be fulfilling when blending passion with potential financial gain. Understanding the history of watch value appreciation, the key factors that influence value, and which brands and models hold their value, are essential steps in making informed investment decisions. Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are some of the best luxury watch brands for investment and are great for entering the sector. Remember, investing in watches is not just about the potential for financial returns but also about appreciating the artistry, craftsmanship, and history that each timepiece represents.

Frequently asked questions about watch investing

Do watches lose value?

Most do. In our analysis, we focused on the 12 most popular watch brands we see as a business, and nine of them are worth less than they were five years ago. Only Patek Philippe, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre are higher. A lot depends on when you buy and sell, and whether you buy pre-owned or brand new from a retailer. If you buy brand new, you are likely to lose money as soon as you buy, unless you are buying a Patek Philippe, Rolex or Audemars Piguet, or a watch from a few smaller brands such as A. Lange & Söhne. If you buy a new TAG Heuer, Omega or Breitling, for example, you are likely to lose money straight away. If you buy pre-owned and sell in similar condition a few years later, you may not lose much. Selling fees and commissions vary, so factor them in when working out what you'll get back.

What watch is the best investment?

Most of this article covers which watch brands perform best. Here are the top-performing models over the past 12 months from the four brands in our ‘hold their value’ section, according to WatchCharts:

Research methodology

We combined our own insight into the watches we see most regularly, and the highest-value timepieces brought to us, with research from WatchCharts, the leading watch analytics company. Watch market performance data is sourced from WatchCharts, using its market indices to compare secondary market price movements across leading luxury watch brands, and is used with WatchCharts’ permission. Figures show changes in secondary-market prices and are not adjusted for inflation. We update this article quarterly. The current figures are correct as of the end of Q3 2026 (30 September 2026), and the next update is due after Q4 2026.

Release the value in your luxury watch

Has one of your watches recently increased in value? Or are you looking to swap your current watch for a new model? We have been a trusted watch pawnbroker and jeweller for over 250 years. Sell your watch in London with us.